Sole meunière

Ordering sole meunière is a restaurant critic’s infallible method of testing the quality of the service, the produce and the way it is cooked, because in theory it’s such a simple dish, but in practice so often massacred. At home, there are three important things to know when aiming for the perfect moist yet crispy sole: first, use the freshest fish you can find; second, always add a little oil to the butter in the pan to prevent it from burning; and third, make sure this is nice and hot be