I will always remember the first time I encountered this fabulous slow-cooked dish. It was made by an inspirational cook, my beloved aunt-in-law. Odile, at some important gathering of my ultra-traditional belle-famille. The only equipment she had in her tiny cottage was one of those mini-ovens that claimed to do everything splendidly but in reality did nothing properly. For once the fact that she could never get it to heat up decently played in her favour, or so she