Poisson d’Avril à Moi

The king of Mediterranean fish, the loup de mer or sea-bass, is most often prepared over a bed of flaming fennel stalks and eaten hot. This fish is, however, also very fine served cold, rather as we would serve cold salmon trout in the summer, with a sauce verte. But one spring, not long after seeing the film French Connection, in which on the fish quay at Marseilles, amongst the shimmering live fish, traditional paper fish are pinned on the unsuspecting, I decided to p