For an organic farmer, asparagus is the ultimate challenge; weeds being the problem. Asparagus’ tall wispy foliage never casts enough shade to suppress weeds, while its unruly growth habit makes row cultivation difficult For the cook however, it is a delight and an iconic marker of the start of another season; all I ask is that you savour each mouthful.
The UK season starts in late April and runs to late June, when the crop must be left to replenish its roots if it is to crop the next year. Should you find yourself at a vegetable market in the Mediterranean in the winter, look out for bunches of spindly, foraged wild asparagus; a much stronger tasting version of the cultivated crop, it is one of the best things I have ever eaten.