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By Abra Berens
Published 2019
The first time I had marinated peas was at the now-shuttered Nightwood Restaurant in Chicago. We ate there not too long after it opened, and when the peas arrived I thought, What a pity these are overcooked, because they were the army green color of boiled-all-to-hell peas. Quite the contrary—the flavor was bright and acidic, the texture firm and surprising.