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Published 1998
Like the famous French chef Antonin Carême, who perfected the art of ice-cream moulding and sculpture in the early nineteenth century, I also believe in luxurious excess and grandiose gestures with food. Doing so gives a formality, a sense of occasion to food, and allows the cook’s personality to shine through. It encourages folly, where artistry and a sense of architecture are revealed without compromising flavour.