Buckwheat

Appears in
Grist: A Practical Guide to Cooking Grains, Beans, Seeds, and Legumes

By Abra Berens

Published 2021

  • About

I often create characters out of ingredients, ascribing little personalities to each one, which presumably, though subconsciously, affects how I cook with them. Such attributes can be assigned due to their physical traits (long and tall celery playing Julia Child), their place of origin (flageolet beans conversing with a Parisienne accent and often smoking a cigarette), or simply how they are used in my kitchen (olive oil always speaking in heavy, rounded tones, matching my glugs).

Buckwheat is no exception—a wizened woman wearing a babushka wearied from having to claw sustenance from ungenerous soil. The little grains with their geometric edges spoke to me of poverty and what could be grown during short summers between long winters. The characteristic “earthy” flavor was a polite way of implying they were unrefined compared to the genteel wheat.