CHICKENS, TURKEYS, GEESE AND DUCKS contribute much to the prestige country meals enjoy. Who doesn’t welcome an invitation to a Sunday chicken or Thanksgiving turkey dinner on the farm? And who doesn’t experience pleasure at the sight of golden fried chicken heaped on the platter or of chicken fricassee wreathed with plump, light-as-air dumplings? Festive goose roast and ducklings appear less frequently, but for that reason plus their rich, moist meat these birds really create excitement when they show.