This bottled sauce is as fundamental to Southeast Asian cooking as soy sauce is to the cuisine of China. Fish sauce is made by allowing anchovies, other small fish, and occasionally squid to ferment in barrels for months at a time. The liquid released becomes fish sauce. Just as olive oil comes in different grades and potencies, so too does fish sauce (although the best quality will cost only a dollar or two more than the cheapest). Fish sauce keeps for at least a year in the refrigerator, although it may grow dark. Although much of the best fish sauce is from Vietnam, Thai brands are easier to find and are perfectly suitable.