Soups and Stews: French Influences

The second most influential culinary tradition in America was French. As a result of the French Revolution, many noblemen, their families, and their entourages fled France. Chefs were among these refugees. Some found positions as chefs in homes of the wealthy in England and other countries. Others opened up restaurants. The French gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, who left France for America at the height of the Reign of Terror, visited a café-tavern in New York City where turtle soup was served for breakfast. While in America, Brillat-Savarin also visited Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat dis Julien. In 1794 Julien opened a public eating house in Boston called Julien’s Restorator, which was his translation of the French word restaurant into English. Julien was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the “Prince of Soups.” He is credited with introducing to America the julienne soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making turtle soup.