Spiced Yam and Labneh

I suppose I take yams for granted, living in such a wonderfully mixed part of London. But it is impossible to overstate their importance in some parts of the world where they are a staple crop. In his wonderful book Things Fall Apart, Chinua Achebe writes ‘Yam stood for manliness, and he who could feed his family on yams from one harvest to another was a very great man indeed’.

This is one of those great little dishes that live a double life posing as something else when you’