Manuela Arraes (or Naná to most cariocas) is a beautiful Portuguese woman who emigrated to Rio de Janeiro when she was 16 years old. She made a life for herself in the pastry business, and today many Brazilians consider her (and her business partner, Monica Soares Verdial) among the best Portuguese bakers in the country. Recently they invited me for a lunch cooked by Naná, with this delicious roulade as dessert. She prefers to use shop-bought fresh orange j