“Birds Nest” on the Grill

“I know why you’re here, ” said the manager of Köşebaşi. “For künefe on the coals.” That Turkey is one of the world’s top four or five grilling hotspots is common knowledge and that Turks grill everything—from the predictable lamb and eggplant to the more esoteric crab apples, quinces, and pistachio nuts—will likewise come as no surprise. But dessert isn’t normally part of the Turkish grill repertory, so when I heard that this upscale grill restaurant, located in Istanbul’s fashionab