A popular dish at seafood restaurants in Bangkok, curried crab is usually served in the shell, leaving diners in need of an immediate shower after the meal. My friend Chef Somsak, who used to have a restaurant in the northern part of the city before the 2Q11 autumn floods destroyed it, made his version, using crabmeat, several times when I visited him there. I was surprised at the use of butter in a Thai dish but Chef Somsak assured me that it’s an importan