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By Carol Field
Published 1997
Pizza has been the food of Naples for about a century, but it didn’t appear in other regions of Italy until after World War II. It certainly wasn’t something that Tuscans ate routinely, so it seems particularly remarkable that Emma Grassi Bensi, who cooked for the Cappelli family just outside Florence, was making these during World War II. Despite the deprivations and dramatic scarcity of the time, Emma had at her fingertips a multitude of ingredients that grew on the land. And when