I think the first time I had this pizza was at Charlie Hallowell’s incredible Oakland restaurant, Pizzaiolo. I liked it so much that I ordered it every week for months. The salty olives with the creamy fontina were a wonderful balance, and the potatoes lent a familiarity that made me feel nice and easy every time I got a bite in my mouth. I prefer to use green olives for this one, but you could just as easily use another variety. Same thing with the potatoes—I like russet,