Lapland fish soup

I love this soup; it is so deliciously warming. I should know, as it was 43°C when I first ate it. Crilla, our guide, dug a hole in the snow and, using his flint strike, a knife and lichen pulled from the trees, soon had a decent fire going, crackling and popping with green pine needles. The soup was lowered on to the fire in a battered camping pot. Served up in mugs, it did as much for my hands as my tongue. In that clean, frozen air and snowy glare, it was a truly delicate and memorable s