Julia Reed, an author who hails from greenville, Mississippi, but lives in New Orleans, knows a thing or two about Creole cooking in general, and everything about shrimp remoulade in particular. Remoulade dressing, of course, is one of the glories of Southern cuisine, and for years, I believed that the finest versions were found in such venerable New Orleans restaurants as Galatoire’s, Broussard’s, and Commander’s Palace. Then, when I tasted Ju
