The family-run Peter Pan Donuts in Greenpoint—the deeply Polish part of Brooklyn—is midcentury Americana coffee shop perfection: low café counter, bottomless coffees, bakery display featuring every possible kind of donut. Funny enough, a lot of people think it’s a Polish donut shop. After all, you’ll hear Polish greetings between staff and clients. But the owner, Christos Siafakas, came over from Greece, not Poland, in the 1970s. Once in New York, he worked