Braised Veal Cheeks with Meyer Lemon, Bacon, and Crisp Sweetbreads

This is a straightforward example of contemporary American cuisine. Essentially, it’s an elevated version of stew served over grits or polenta. The veal cheeks are cooked with smoked, cured bacon; after three hours, their collagen starts to break down and renders the meat supple, nearly molten. Floral, citrusy Meyer lemon—with its juice and zest—brightens the cooking liquid, which becomes a thick, hearty sauce. Enriched with chicken stock and mascarpone, polenta, the plate’s nutty starch, s