La Soupe de Poisson

Unless you live right on the southern coast of France it is not easy to make proper bouillabaisse. But people are not to be deprived of fish soup, and in the loneliest villages in the hills of Provence you are likely to see a travelling fishmonger with one of his trays marked poissons pour la soupe. The fish are tiny gurnards, red and grey mullet, rascasses and so on, and cheap. Here in the north we can make a good mixture with some of the same fish in larger sizes. Indeed, so long a