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This Sichuan soup has crossed more borders in China than the Great Wall and it has become a part of Hunan and even Cantonese cooking. The blend of black Xinkiang (or Sinkiang) vinegar, chopped chillies and pepper is aromatic and spicy, and it really catches the throat. Generally chicken is added, but a vegetarian version can feature just the diced tofu. Long-life tofu is available in two types – silken and firm; either are suitable.