The marmalade-making method used in all the citrus-marmalade recipes in this book is based on the one used at the venerable june taylor jams in San Francisco and described in the New York Times Magazinea few years back. It essentially involves removing all the tough and unpleasant membranes from the citrus while still taking advantage of the thickening pectin contained therein. It’s not how my grandmother ever made marmalade (I imagine that, l